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Travel Tijuana Mexico - La Avenida Revolucion is probably what most Americans think of when they hear the name Tijuana: a strip of souvenir stores, bars and arcades, where shoppers can find bargains on perfume, clothing and handicrafts, and others can get an early beer.

Tijuana is full of cheap souvenirs and touts is just what many people  cross the border for. But the city of nearly two million people has a mellower, more cultured side. Driving in Tijuana is stressful, so we left our car in a parking lot on the United States side and walked across the border, a process that involves passing through two revolving gates separated by a walkway with a tourist information booth, money changers and travel agencies, an easy and uneventful process that takes about three minutes. (Although there are officials here who scrutinize people coming into Mexico, I have never had anyone ask me a question or request identification.) Hoteles

A taxi on the other side took us for $8 to the Hacienda del Río, a hotel in the Zona Río, an upscale neighborhood on the south side of the Tijuana River. My initial impression was of a clean and modern city, which is the case in much of downtown, but the picture is patchy: Even the more prosperous areas are marred by failed commercial developments, empty littered lots and graffiti.

To visit Mexico, walk this way Greyhound buses, $5 one way, link downtown San Diego to downtown Tijuana (about 50 minutes); (619) 239-8082. Or take the red trolley from San Diego to the San Ysidro crossing ($2.50), or park in one of the lots at the Plazas de Tijuana exit (the nearest one, to the right, is also cheapest at $7 for 24 hours), then walk across the border or take a Mexicoach bus (from the trolley stop or parking lot), which stops at the Avenida Revolución downtown ($1.50 each way) and leaves about every 15 minutes; (619) 428-9517.

United States citizens should have photo identification such as a driver's license or passport; adults with minors may be asked for notarized parental permission to travel outside the country.

It is wise to avoid isolated areas at night and not display valuables, and know the city's laws (driving while using a cellphone, public drunkenness, and buying or using illegal drugs are violations; punishment ranges from a $45 fine to imprisonment). The police are not allowed to collect fines at the scene. Many people go to Tijuana to buy reduced-price medications, but one needs a prescription. To guard tourists' rights, a judge is available 24 hours a day for disputes over fines.

Where to Stay  Hotel Lucerna, Paseo de los Héroes 10902, Zona Río; (800) 582-3762; www.hotel-lucerna.com.mx/. This six-story hotel has an outdoor pool and well-appointed, airy doubles for $141 a night; with AAA discount, $75, plus 12 percent tax.

Where to Eat  Cien Años, Avenida José Maria 1407, Zona Río, telephone (52-664) 634-3039, a Spanish Colonial-style restaurant, offers new and traditional Mexican dishes, such as crepas de huitlacoche, chili-tinged crepes wrapped around a black corn fungus. Dinner for two with beer or wine, about $70.

Carnitas Quiroga, Paseo de los Héroes 1535, Zona Río, (52-664) 634-6899; platters of carnitas and accompaniments, with beer, about $10 a person.

La Casa del Mole, Misión San Diego 1501 (corner Paseo de los Héroes), Zona Río, (52-664) 634-6920; three kinds of mole sauce over chicken, with other menu choices. A meal with beer, about $15 a person.

La Especial, in a below-ground arcade at Avenida Revolución 718; (52-664) 685-6654. This Tijuana version of an old-fashioned diner is 50 years old. Dishes run $5 to $10.

Sightseeing Centro Cultural, Paseo de los Héroes and Avenida Independencia, (52-664) 687-9646; Omnimax movies, exhibits, concerts, theater and other events; www.cecut.org.mx.

Mundo Divertido, Paseo de los Héroes at Calle Velasco, (52-664) 634-3213; admission free, rides $1.40. Weekdays noon to 9 p.m., weekends noon to 9:30 p.m.

L.A. Cetto Winery, Cañón Johnson 8151, (52-664) 685-3031 or (52-664) 685-1644. Monday to Saturday, 10 a.m. to 5 p.m.; tour and tasting, $2. MARTHA STEVENSON OLSON

Bringing things back. You must declare anything you bring back to the U.S. from Mexico. You are permitted only 1 liter of alcohol and $400. worth of goods purchased in Mexico duty-free. Animals and agricultural products are also strictly regulated and the rules can be a little mysterious. You can bring back many fruits, including bananas, cactus fruits, limes, melons, papayas, pineapples and strawberries

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